EXPLORING LONDON 5
Our next Planning Meeting will be on Tuesday 14th May 2024 at 10:00am at the Beaumont Centre.
Please note our Planning Meeting for June co-insides with our trip to the London Transport Museum.**
Future Trips:-
- Monday 20th May 2024 - St Pancras Historical Hotel Tour.
- Tuesday 11th June 2024 - London Transport Museum Depot Tour.
**No Planning Meeting in June.
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APRIL 2024 ‘On the Beat in Bloomsbury to Fitzrovia’.
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MARCH 2024
On Wednesday 20th March a small group visited The Huntarian Museum which is situated in the building of the Royal College of Surgeons. Here we traced the development of the art and science of surgery from ancient times to the latest robot-assisted operations. We explored the extraordinary collection of over 2000 anatomical preparations by the 18th century surgeon and anatomist John Hunter (1728-1793). Items on display include instruments, equipment, models, paintings and archive material.
The museum reopened in May 2023 following renovation work costing £4.6 million.
John Hunter was born on a farm outside Glasgow, and unlike his older brother William, received no formal medical training. In 1748 at the age of 20 he moved to London to work as an assistant in the anatomy school of his elder brother William. Under William's direction, John learnt human anatomy and showed great skill in dissection and preparing specimens. William also arranged for him to study surgery under the leading surgeons of the day. After 3 years as an army surgeon, John built up his practice as a surgeon in London, and arranged his growing collection for the teaching of medical students.
His focus was on comparative anatomy, and grew to contain over 14,000 plant and animal specimens. Hunter made several important contributions to surgical practice and promoted evidence based medicine through close observation and experimentation to inform surgical practice.
His collection is a unique record of the breadth of interest in the nature of living things explored by scientists throughout Europe during the 1700s.
After a very interesting visit we moved on to a local hostelry before the return journey to Cheshunt.
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FEBRUARY 2024
On a bright but chilly Monday a large group ventured to Covent Garden for a backstage tour. Over the course of its 360-year existence, the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane has been demolished, burned down twice, struck by a bomb during the Blitz and forcibly shuttered by the Covid-19 pandemic – rising from the ashes each time to produce yet more renowned productions.
Every reigning British monarch since the Restoration has visited and it’s here that “God Save The King” was first performed in 1745. The song was met with rapturous applause – ultimately proving so popular that it was officially named the national anthem.
The Theatre Royal Drury Lane underwent a £66 million renovation project, having closed its doors in 2019. The unique architecture of this Grade 1 Regency building has been restored to its former 1812 glory. Open to the public all day, the newly restored Theatre Royal Drury Lane, affectionately known as “The Lane”, is re-imagined as a destination for entertainment, food, bars, art and culture, so the iconic interiors can be enjoyed by everyone not just theatregoers in the heart of London’s Covent Garden.
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Saturday 9th December 2023 - Canterbury
Tuesday 28th November 2023 - Vintners Hall
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SEPTEMBER 2023
On a very sunny and warm late September day, 24 members met our Blue Badge Guide at Temple Tube Station.
She explained that during the 12th and early 13th centuries, law was taught in the City of London, primarily by the clergy. But a papal bull in 1218 prohibited the clergy from practising in the secular courts (where the English common law system operated, as opposed to the Roman civil law functioning in the Church's ecclesiastical courts). As a result, law began to be practised and taught by laymen instead of by clerics.
To protect their schools from competition, first Henry II (r. 1154–1189) and later Henry III (r. 1216–1272) issued proclamations prohibiting the teaching of the civil law within the City of London.
The common-law lawyers worked in guilds of law, modelled on trade guilds, which in time became the Inns of Court.
In the earliest centuries of their existence, beginning with the 14th century, the Inns were any of a sizeable number of buildings or precincts where lawyers traditionally lodged, trained and carried on their profession. Over the centuries, the four Inns of Court became where barristers were trained, while the more numerous Inns of Chancery – which were initially affiliated to the Inns of Court– became associated with the training of solicitors in the Elizabethan era.
The four Inns of Court are Lincoln’s Inn, Inner Temple, Middle Temple and Gray’s Inn. Lawyers have lived and worked in the Temple since 1320. In the 16th century and earlier, students or apprentices learned their craft primarily by attending court sessions and by sharing both accommodation and education. Prior to the outbreak of the English Civil War in 1642, this training lasted at least seven years; subsequently, the Inns focused their residency requirements on dining together in the company of experienced barristers, to enable learning through contact and networking with experts.
In the mid-18th century the common law was first recognised as a subject for study in the universities, and by 1872 bar examinations became compulsory for entry into the profession of law.
The Royal Courts of Justice, commonly called the Law Courts, is a court building in Westminster which houses the High Court and Court of Appeal of England and Wales. Designed by George Edmund Street, who died before it was completed, it is a large grey stone edifice in the Victorian Gothic Revival style built in the 1870s and opened by Queen Victoria in 1882. The building is reminiscent of a Cathedral in both style and scale. It is one of the largest courts in Europe, housing over 100 courts.
Soon after building work began the masons went on strike. Foreign workers, mainly Germans, were brought in. In order to avoid confrontation with the strikers, the Germans lived and were fed inside the building. Carvings on the internal stone pillars record their incarceration night and day.
After a fascinating tour of Legal London we retired to a local Wetherspoons before our return to Cheshunt.
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AUGUST 2023
We travelled by train from Cheshunt, changing at Cambridge, and arrived at Ely in plenty of time to enjoy a coffee before our Walking Tour of the City at 11:30am. The sun shone as we learnt that until 200 years ago Ely was an Island, famous for being the source of the best eels in England.
The Cathedral has its origins in AD672 when St Etheldreda built an abbey church. The present building dates back to 1083, and was granted cathedral status in 1109. Having been built in a monumental Romanesque style, parts were rebuilt in an exuberant Decorated Gothic. The central octagonal tower, with lantern above and the east Tower dominate the surrounding landscape.
Stone for the Cathedral was quarried in Northamptonshire and arrived by boat, having been purchased for 8,000 eels. The Benedictine monastery was dissolved by Henry VIII.
Oliver Cromwell’s House was visited by many of our group, whilst others toured the Cathedral and tower, the Museum or explored the waterfront. Oliver Cromwell was born into a wealthy Huntingdon family, although his branch was junior, and he had to leave his Cambridge College to look after his estate, his widowed mother, his wife and ultimately his 9 children. He inherited several properties in Ely, including the lease on a house to which his family moved.
The lease required him to collect the local taxes. Cromwell, a devout Protestant, disapproved of changes to the church proposed by Charles I. When war broke out between King and Parliament, Cromwell was one of the first MP’s to take up arms and fight. When a new Model Army was raised, Cromwell rose from being a country Gentleman to MP and finally to military leader. Following the beheading of Charles l he became Lord Protector. He died from a fever in the Palace of Whitehall and was given a royal funeral. Two years later Charles ll was restored to the throne and Oliver’s body was exhumed, hanged and beheaded.
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JULY 2023
On Tuesday 25th July we set out on a grey but dry day for two great visits. Relieved that the threatened tube strike had been lifted, we arrived at the National Army Museum for coffee and a visit to the recently refreshed exhibition galleries. These cover the role of the Army from the British Civil War to the modern day. Thoughts and ideas are explored, as well as real stories of real people. The way we think about the Army was also challenged, as well as our relationship with it. A thought provoking place to visit.
Refreshed by lunch, we walked a few minutes down Royal Hospital Road to the Chelsea Physic Garden. Celebrating its 350th anniversary this year and originally set up by the Worshipful Society of Apothecaries, its original purpose was to provide medicinal plants. It is the only Botanic garden collection focused entirely on medicine, herbal and useful plants.
Originally it was an outdoor classroom for training apprentice Apothecaries, who are known as pharmacists today. They were trained to identify different plants and to understand their uses. Today over 4,500 species are crammed into the 4 acre site, helping tell the story of humanity’s relationship with plants. Our two Tour Guides were knowledgeable and friendly. Indeed Paula, who has guided us on several Blue Badge Tours, is a volunteer guide at the Garden, and picked out our visit especially. Thank you Paula.
Refreshed by more tea and in some cases cake, we returned to Cheshunt educated, informed and entertained by our day in London. Sir John Reith would be proud! I note that Mick Jagger held his 80th Birthday Bash at the Physic Garden last night, so perhaps we should add Cool to the list of its Attributes!
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JUNE 2023
On a sunny early June morning we met at Cheshunt station for the easy rail journey to Kings Cross, with a short walk to the Canal Museum in Gatti’s Ice House. A brief introductory talk outlined the history of the museum, its original use as an ice store, and the role of the wharf in Battlebridge basin just off the Regents Canal.
The canals made the industrial revolution possible, providing transport for raw materials and fuel such as coal, and transporting finished goods made in the new factories. Today many have survived, and we enjoyed a short canal trip through the Islington tunnel and back, admiring the restored industrial architecture which today form up market housing backing the canal.
The two commercial icewells in the floor of the museum reflect the building’s role in storing imported Norwegian ice for use by London hotels, fishmongers, dairies, hospitals and the well to do who could afford to keep their milk cool. Built in 1850s and 1860s for Carlo Gatti, the ice arrived from the docks by horse drawn barge. Indeed horses were stabled in the upper floor of the museum, as the ice was delivered by horse drawn carts. Horses provided the power for all Canal barges at the time, and stabling was found along all London towpaths.
The talk covered how locks work, allowing barges to climb and descend hills, whilst conserving water.
Industrialisation on the river Lea formed an interesting section of the museum display, outlining the importance of the canalising to form the Lea navigation.
The history of the Gunpowder Mills and the explosion of a barge carrying Gunpowder on the canal in Regents Park in 1874 were colourfully explained.
The highlight of the morning was the leisurely trip aboard the narrow boat Long Tom, where coffee and biscuits were served and a brief account of the industries which used to line the canal.
We moved on in traditional style to a local Wetherspoons, after which some explored different local attractions, including Coal Drop yard, Granary Square and the Crick Institute.
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JUNE 2023
Exploring London 5 visit to Kensington Palace.
Kensington Palace was once a small suburban villa, known as Nottingham House. New monarchs William III and Mary II chose this modest mansion in 1689 to be their country retreat. Over the years, Stuart and Georgian monarchs transformed the palace into a fashionable home for Britain’s young royal families. Queen Caroline shaped the palace and gardens, and Queen Victoria spent her childhood here.
Who would have thought that parallels could be drawn between dressing for the Royal Georgian Court in the 18th Century and dressing for red carpet events today? Well, we learnt that there are many similarities: making political and social comments, dressing to be noticed in outrageous costumes, dressing to impress and not least dressing up for an occasion.
For court wear in the early 18th century, women wore the open-fronted mantua, with a train and matching petticoat. To give the figure the required shape, stays (an 18th century precursor to the corset) and hooped petticoat, or panniers, were worn underneath. Designed to reflect the wearer’s status, mantuas were typically decorated with opulent embroidery incorporating gold or silver thread or gilt lace. The skirts were up to 3 metres wide and walking and dancing in them took much practice. Georgian men, by contrast, wore relatively traditional outfits. A Georgian man’s suit consisted of the same three basic pieces as today: waistcoat, jacket, and breeches. Rarely were the three pieces not matching in colour and style. Vivid, bold colours were normal, but whether colourful or a subdued brown or cream, jackets and waistcoats were highly embellished and fancy. Breeches with white stockings were the standard leg covering, which matched the jacket and waistcoat. Suits were made to be a single ensemble, and not to mix and match. Men’s shoes had heels, low heels, but heels just the same. Big buckles and other decor were common, and the shoes were often as brightly coloured as the suit.
Set amongst the Georgian finery were contemporary red carpet outfits. The custom Moschino chandelier-inspired outfit designed for Katy Perry and worn at the 2019 Met Gala consisted of a small chandelier perched on her head and a larger chandelier surrounding her body. Sitting down became out of the question! Other key iconic looks from recent years include Billy Porter’s "Sun God” for the 2019 Met Gala, and Kendall Jenner’s shimmering Hepburn-inspired Givenchy dress worn to the 2021 event. Outrageous, eye opening and often jaw dropping the exhibition included men in dresses and women in suits. Make of it what you will.
In addition there is an exhibition upstairs, called “Victoria: A Royal Childhood” which displays the rooms in Kensington Palace as they were when Victoria grew up there.
The Jewel Room displays an incredible suite of jewellery, including specially commissioned gems for Queen Victoria and magnificent examples of red carpet accessories as part of the Crown to Couture exhibition. The Jewel Room also displays commissioned gems for Queen Victoria by her beloved husband Albert.
Sadly, rain and limited time prevented an exploration of the gardens, so we retired to a Wetherspoons for refreshment before battling with a reduced train service, due to a rail strike, for a return to Cheshunt.
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APRIL 2023
Exploring London 5 visit to The Museum of the Home, April 2023.
The Museum of the Home has is situated in 300 year old almshouses in Hoxton. The almshouses were built in 1714 and funded by Sir Robert Geffrye. They provided homes for the poor pensioners of the Ironmongers company. Twice master of this Company and a previous Mayor of London, Robert Geffrye left money to set up Almshouses in Hoxton for 50 pensioners in 1714. He is immortalised in the centre of the Almshouse, still there today, despite public pressure to remove the statue because of his links to the transatlantic slave trade.
By the dawn of the 20th Century Hoxton was overcrowded and largely full of unsavoury slum dwellings. The Ironmonger’s Company sold their Kingsland Road property to relocate to a nicer, airy part of London and the almshouses were bought by the London County Council in 1911. The LCC saw that they could give new purpose to the almshouses by turning it into a museum.
In April 1914 the Geffrye Museum opened to the public as a museum of woodwork. In the mid-1930s a chronological run of living room displays was created, for learning about the history of domestic life and everyday things. Over the years the Museum evolved, presenting paintings, furniture and decorated arts in the context of living rooms.
An extra wing was added in 1998 and period gardens were developed. The gardens echo changes in society and the wider world and show the fashions and innovations of the time. One of the 14 almshouses was restored to show the living conditions of former residents in the 1780s and 1880s. It was renamed The Geffrye Museum of the Home in 2011.
The Museum closed in 2018 for an extensive rebuilding, and reopened with new galleries and learning spaces. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Hoxton and, in our time honoured way, moved on to a Wetherspoons in Old Street.
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MARCH 2023
On Thursday, 9th March we enjoyed a guided tour of the highlights of the Victoria and Albert Museum. Under the expert attention of our guide Paula, we were steered through the magnificent Parlour from the Old Palace in Bromley by Bow. Dating from 1606, the beautifully carved wooden panelling, the stone chimney-piece, featuring a frieze of carved birds and monsters, which were probably originally picked out in gold and colours, and the elaborate plasterwork ceiling are all magnificently preserved.
The magnificent plaster cast of Trajan's Column is one of the stars of the V&A collection, and has towered over the cast collection in two halves since the opening of the Courts in 1873. A monumental feat of moulding, electrotyping, casting and engineering, the column perfectly demonstrates the complexity and skill of copying in the 19th century.
Other highlights included a 1670 manicure set, featuring a tiny spoon for removing earwax, a tongue scraper and a toothpick. The Hereford Cathedral Choir screen, designed by George Gilbert Scott is a premier example of Victorian Gothic metalwork. It was removed and stored in packing cases until restoration began on 1997. It is now displayed in the Ironwork gallery.
The Great Bed of Ware created much interest, being made locally in the 1590’s in the typical style of the period in carved wood. It has ropes rather than springs and reputedly slept 4 couples! Over 10 ft 8 inches wide, it is remarkable for it’s large size. It is thought that an Innkeeper of Ware had it made as a curiosity to attract customers, as Ware is located 22 miles north of London, a day’s journey from the capital on horseback or by coach. Mentioned by Shakespeare in Twelfth Night in 1601, and by Ben Johnson as ‘The Great Bed of Ware’ in a play of 1609, carved initials and red wax seals left by visitors may be seen on the bedposts and headboards today.
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FEBRUARY 2023
On 21st February a large group enjoyed an interesting and informative tour of Covent Garden. Home of the Royal Ballet, The Royal Opera and The Orchestra of the Royal Opera House, the current building is the third to occupy the site. The first, the Theatre Royal, Covent Garden, was completed in 1732 and was originally a playhouse. This was destroyed by fire in 1808, and was rebuilt, to be destroyed again by fire. The current building was opened in 1858, and underwent a large extension, which was completed in 1999. This added the adjacent Flower Market, now known as the Floral Hall.
We toured the Costume department, and learnt of the workshop and costume store in Thurrock. No costume is ever thrown away, and some of the oldest in regular use date from the 1960’s. We watched members of The Royal Ballet rehearsing for the evening show, and were shown the magnificent auditorium. Tiers of boxes in a horseshoe shape provide fabulous views of the stage. Finally we browsed the display of historic posters and programmes on display in the foyer of this famous London landmark.
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NOVEMBER 2022
On 24th October we enjoyed a splendid guided tour of the Highlights of the British Museum. Our guide Paula began with the Ancient Civilisations of Mesopotamia, situated within the Tigris-Euphrates river system. It was here the wheel was invented, the first cereal crops were grown and their use of cuneiform script is the oldest form of writing.
The Ancient Greek Civilisation gave us democracy, theatre, philosophy and the Olympic Games. We admired the impressive Parthenon (Elgin) Marbles, part of the Acropolis in Athens and taken by Lord Elgin to London. The Greeks would really like them returned!
The Rosetta Stone message is written in three types of script, allowing Egyptian Hieroglyphics to be understood. The impressive statue of Ramesses ll, a public statement of the King’s divine status and power, depicts Ramesses as young, handsome and athletic. No visit to the British Museum is complete without visiting the mummies! As it was half term we hastened through the Mummy Gallery, stopping only to hear a detailed description of the gory process of mummification. This was not for the fainthearted!
Finally, we moved on to some ancient finds made in the UK. The Mildenhall Treasure consists of 34 pieces of Roman Silver tableware of the fourth century. Ploughed up in a farmers field, he took them home, cleaned them with a Brillo pad and kept them on his sideboard. A visitor recognised their worth, they were seized and given to the British Museum.
The Great Ship burial of Sutton Hoo is the richest burial found in Northern Europe. 1,400 years ago a king or great warrior of East Anglia was laid to rest in a 90 foot boat, surrounded by his extraordinary treasures. Silverware from distant Byzantium, Sri Lankan garnets, fine feasting vessels and an iconic helmet with human mask were discovered in this early seventh century burial mound.
We retired, as usual, to a local hostelry completing a very interesting and informative day.
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OCTOBER 2022
Copped Hall is a fine Georgian mansion that is currently undergoing extensive restoration. A Tudor Mansion was demolished to make way for a Georgian Mansion, which was extensively damaged by fire in 1917 and abandoned. The Copped Hall Trust saved this mansion and gardens by purchasing them in 1995. An interesting feature was the Winter Garden, a large glass domed structure reached by a glazed corridor, which contained a large circular lily pond and was filled with exotic trees, plants and statuary. It had its own boiler room feeding hot water pipes that ran beneath the floor to maintain warm conditions. Restoration is well under way. King Henry’s Walk was a tall yew tree avenue (the trees being felled in 1950 for their timber) and the oldest man made structure in the gardens, pre-dating the Elizabethan house. King Henry VIII used this walk when staying at the old Tudor Hall. It has been replanted in its original formation.
Our visit to the Walled Garden, probably the biggest in the South East at about 4 acres, was particularly memorable. Gardens such as these produced fruit, flowers and vegetables and contained extensive greenhouses. It was in a completely derelict state when volunteers recreated the layout of the gardens and are once again growing the full range of produce. Sales of garden plants to our members were very brisk! We were treated to a delightful coffee break in the Racquets Court, which included a choice from a huge range of homemade cakes. Excellent! Rooms throughout the mansion are being steadily restored and the principal Portland Stone Staircase has been progressively rebuilt to second floor level. A lightwell stretched from the basement to roof level, the inner walls of which, made from glazed white bricks and tiles, reflect light into the inner facing windows. Major restoration works to the windows and glazed bricks together with a new roof now allows light to enter as before. Much of the man and woman power is provided by stalwart volunteers, including our knowledgeable and friendly tour guides. It was a truly memorable and interesting visit to a local landmark
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JULY 2022
In early July we visited Cambridge by train. Unfortunately, a tree had decided to interfere with the overhead power lines in the Sawbridgeworth area, resulting in no trains running from Cheshunt. In the end we went via Finsbury Park arriving in Cambridge two hours late ! We met our very understanding guide, and had a brief introduction to the college in the beautiful Old Library. This was the original College Chapel, dating back to the 14th Century.
Pembroke College, founded in 1347 by Marie de St Pol, Countess of Pembroke, is third oldest of the Cambridge colleges and was the first to have its own Chapel. Pembroke is the earliest Cambridge College to survive today on its original site with an unbroken constitution from its foundation. We admired the wonderful plaster ceiling of the Old Library before joining the students and staff for lunch in Hall.
Refreshed and recharged, we resumed our tour of the college. The current Chapel owes its origins to Matthew Wren, Bishop of Ely. During his imprisonment in the Tower of London during the Civil War he vowed that, if he were released, he would build a new chapel for his College. This he did, choosing for the architect his nephew, and the Chapel of Pembroke, consecrated in 1665, is the first completed work of Sir Christopher Wren and the first chapel in Oxford or Cambridge in the classical style.
Famous Pembroke alumni include Eric Idle, Tim Brooke-Taylor, Clive James and Peter Cook, Thomas Gray(of Elegy fame) and William Pitt the younger.
Pressing on to the Botanic Gardens we enjoyed a Tour again lead by our ever knowledgeable tour guide. The first director of the garden, a certain John Stevens Henslow was invited to join HMS Beagle, but nominated Charles Darwin to take his place. This experience allowed Darwin, following discussions with Henslow, to develop his theory of evolution.
Thankfully the trains were running to schedule for our return journey, so after a hasty cuppa we returned to Cheshunt as planned. It was a day full of history, beautiful gardens and gave us a taste of Cambridge College life in the 21st Century.
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JUNE 2022
We met our knowledgeable and friendly guide Paula, who was waiting beside a statue of two child refugees from the Nazi programs in Liverpool Street Station, which was the main place of arrival and the meeting point for children and their eventual foster families. We then admired a second Kindertransport commemorative statue called the Arrival outside the station in Hope Square. Four children stand proud and poised, with their luggage beside them. It was a sober reminder of the recent history of a busy London mainline station.
Who knew that a Victorian Turkish Bathhouse stands surrounded by tall office buildings 5 minutes walk from this station? Built in Victorian times to provide bathing facilities to the local community, and opened in 1895, it had marble floors, sunken baths, mosaics, stained glass and glistening gold fittings. Passing the old Nat West Tower, Austin Friars was the site of an Augustinian Friary in the City of London between 1260 and its dissolution in 1538. Covering 5.5 acres, it became the home of the Dutch Church, and the Dutch language is still used for services held there.
The Merchant Taylors' Company began as an association of working tailors. It received its first royal charter in 1327 and is the only ancient Livery Company to remain on its original site.
The Royal Exchange was Britain's first specialist commercial building and was officially opened on 23 January 1571 by Queen Elizabeth 1, who awarded the building its royal title and a licence to sell alcohol and valuable goods. Only the exchange of goods took place until the 17th century. Stockbrokers were not allowed into the Royal Exchange because of their rude manners, hence they had to operate from other establishments in the vicinity, such as the newly established coffee houses. The golden Gresham Grasshopper is the Royal Exchange's weathervane and was the crest of the founder, Sir Thomas Gresham.
Progressing down Popes Head Alley, we reached Lombard Street which is where modern banking began. Goldsmiths would hang out signs to attract business, forerunners of the modern logo. A few Edwardian replicas of these signs remain.
Following the narrow alley Bengal Court, we entered St Michael’s Alley, where, in 1652 the first coffee house in London was opened. Set within a warren of medieval streets, it was opened by an importer of goods from Turkey that included coffee. Coffee houses opened to allow the wealthy to try this new and exotic drink.
There has been an inn on the site of the George and Vulture since 1142. It was said to be a meeting place of the notorious Hell-Fire Club and is now a revered City chop house.
Finally we visited Leadenhall Market which began life as a forum in the centre of Roman London and there has been a market on the site since the 14th Century. Following St Peter’s Alley, we admired the rear entrance of The Counting House, which only became a pub in 1998. Nonetheless it operated as a bank for many years. A counting house! . Founded in 1759 it was rebuilt in 1893 as Prescott’s Bank and became part of the Nat West network in 1970. Cornhill is London’s highest hill and was probably the site of the Roman Basilica. Cornhill later became dominated by a medieval grain market, hence the name.
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MAY 2022
On May 9th we travelled by coach to Windsor for a fun filled day. The sun shone, the Royal Standard flew on the Round Tower, the M25 and M4 cooperated fully, and the group enjoyed the full range of activities on offer. 18 members chose to visit the Castle, where the Dolls House, the State Apartments and St George’s Chapel were toured, guided by Multimedia headphones and screens. Windsor Castle is the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world. Founded by William the Conqueror in the 11th century, it has since been the home of 39 monarchs. Today The Queen spends most of her private weekends at the Castle.
Also on offer and enjoyed by many were open topped bus rides around Windsor, self guided walks around the town, strolls in the Great Park, once a hunting ground for Henry VIII, River boat trips, Riverside walks and a stroll over the river to Eton College. Some of the group took advantage of the exclusive shopping opportunity, and many ended up in Wetherspoons for a refreshing and reviving lunch. After a busy day enjoying as many of the delights of Windsor as we could, we journeyed home vowing to return to take full advantage of the 12 months annual pass that the Castle ticket offers.
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APRIL 2022 PART 2
On 30th April We enjoyed a fascinating visit to the Crossness Pumping Stations as part of Victorian London’s sewage system designed by Sir Joseph Bazalgette and opened in 1865. The building, designed by Charles Henry Driver, is a grade 1 listed industrial heritage site and a masterpiece of 19th-century engineering, architecture and design. It features spectacular ornamental cast ironwork which has been described as “a Victorian cathedral of ironwork”. Our guide was extremely knowledgeable and enthusiastic and the visit exceeded all our expectations. We thoroughly recommend it to members as well as to other Exploring London groups.
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APRIL 2022
On 11th April a small group visited Strawberry Hill House, Twickenham. Despite unexpected rail disruptions, we travelled by train, underground and bus, downed a quick coffee in the cafe, and began our tour of the Gothic revival mansion.
Strawberry Hill House’s story begins in 1747, when Horace Walpole discovered and purchased a couple of cottages with views of the Thames and set about transforming them into his vision of a ‘little Gothic castle’ with pinnacles, battlements and a round tower. Thus Strawberry Hill House was born.
Gothic vaulting, medieval tombs and rose windows abound, and the house was passed down within the family, with each generation extending and modifying the building. In 1925 it became a teacher training college, and was greatly extended. The original Gothic Castle underwent a £10 million restoration between 2006 and 2011, to produce the fabulous and fascinating monument to Gothic Revivalism that we so enjoyed visiting.
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MARCH 2022
On 3rd March 33 members visited the Shakespeare's Globe theatre it is a reconstruction of the Globe Theatre, an Elizabethan playhouse for which William Shakespeare wrote his plays, on the south bank of the River Thames. The original theatre was built in 1599, destroyed by the fire in 1613, rebuilt in 1614, and then demolished by Puritans in 1644. The modern Globe Theatre is based on available evidence of the 1599 and 1614 buildings. Modern safety requirements mean that it accommodates only 1,400 spectators compared to the original theatre's 3,000. What a squash!
Shakespeare's Globe was founded by the actor and director Sam Wanamaker, built about 230 metres from the site of the original theatre and opened to the public in 1997.
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JANUARY 2022
On Tuesday January 25th, 30 members of Exploring London 5 toured Mansion House. It was a cold and grey day, with a chilly wind, but our spirits were high as we walked through the city from Liverpool Street Station.
Before the Great Fire of London in 1666 Lord Mayors used their own houses or livery halls for their work. The idea of creating a permanent residence resulted in George Dance being chosen to design and build Mansion House, which was completed in 1758.
Imposingly Palladian in style, the entertaining rooms were built on the first and second floors. The first floor had a roofless courtyard (later covered to form the Salon, the entertainment space) and the great Egyptian Hall. The second floor has a ballroom and private apartments of the Lord Mayor and family. The third and fourth floors contain meeting rooms and staff rooms. The cellars have storage space and once held prisoners' cells, reflecting the former use of the Mansion House as the Lord Mayor's Court.
Huge sparkling chandeliers, ornate plaster ceilings, essential symmetry achieved using false doors, a fabulous fireplace in the gents loo, and the Hall keeper's Chair, designed to keep the draught out as he met and greeted the Lord Mayor's guests outside, which contained a draw at the bottom to put a hot pan or coal in to keep the Hall keeper warm are striking memories. The Egyptian Hall, seating 350 was being prepared for a Livery House banquet that very evening, whilst a fabulous collection of 17th century Dutch and Flemish Art and statuary lined the walls. Finally we explored the vault, stuffed with Gold and Silver plate from ancient to modern. The Keeper and Polisher of the plate kept a very close eye on us as we exited!
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JANUARY 2022
On Tuesday 18th January, 19 members visited Forty Hall for a guided Tour. The partly frozen lake was, as ever, busy with water fowl, and the 300 year old Cedars of Lebanon tree looked magnificent on the frost covered ground. We were welcomed into the Great Hall by our tour guide, dressed in 17th Century costume of wool and linen. Set in its own Estate, with walled garden, formal and informal gardens, lakes, lawns, and meadows, Forty Hall is Grade 1 listed and important to architectural English history as a fine example on the cusp between the medieval to modern style.Built by former Lord Mayor of London, Sir Nicholas Rainton, in 1632 the Hall stands on the edge of London and is important to understanding the growth of the Capital City and of the life and times of the merchant classes.The Elsyng Palace scheduled monument lies within the Forty Hall Estate. The palace is a unique and nationally significant archaeological monument, not only as the site of an early Tudor courtier's palace later developed by Henry VIII, but as a complex multi-phased landscape with a rich history stretching back to medieval times. The palace was also a childhood residence of King Edward VI and Queen Elizabeth I. The group then moved on to The Salisbury Arms, where the numbers swelled to 42. We enjoyed a festive lunch complete with Christmas Crackers, mince pies and coffee. Despite the chilly start, a great day was had by all. Future visits planned:
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DECEMBER 2021
On Friday 3rd December, a small group visited the fascinating Museum of London. Tracing the development of the UK’s capital city from prehistoric to modern times, the museum is situated in the Barbican, close to the London wall. The city changed and grew during Roman and Saxon times, and in the medieval era was ravaged by civil wars, plague and fire. The modern London galleries display Victorian London streets, recreated pleasure gardens and the magnificent Lord Mayors Coach.
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NOVEMBER 2021
On 11th November 26 members enjoyed a tour of Fulham Palace and gardens, the home of the Bishops of London from AD 704. At one time 36 acres of the estate were enclosed by a moat, creating the longest moat in England. Around 1495 the Tudor courtyard and great hall were built and in 1600 Queen Elizabeth visited and enjoyed a lavish banquet in her honour in the Great Hall. The gardens were relandscaped in the 1761's and a walled garden created. A clock was added to the bell tower in 1770: the bell itself is 100 years older and was commissioned from the Whitechapel Bell Foundry. In 1918/9 the Palace was used as an auxiliary military hospital for soldiers wounded in WW1. 1973 was the last year that a Bishop lived at the Palace and in 1975 the Palace was leased for 100 years to the London Borough of Fulham and Hammersmith. The gardens were opened to the public and two phases of restoration were completed in 2006 and 2011 upon which The Fulham Palace trust was formed to look after the site. The group crossed Putney Bridge for refreshments at a hostelry called The Rocket
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OCTOBER 2021
"On October 19th, 19 members of Exploring London Group 5 visited The Charterhouse. En route, we called in to view Postman’s Park, named after postmen from the nearby old General Post Office, which contains 54 plaques each dedicated to an ordinary person, who did something most extraordinary: gave their life in an attempt to save someone else. Devised by George Frederick Watts, it opened in 1900, with the most recent plaque being added in 2009. Watts believed that the material prosperity of a nation is not an abiding possession: the deeds of its people are. With this noble thought in mind, we pressed on for lunch at a local hostelry before reaching The Charterhouse.
This ancient building, dating from 1348 has served as a monastery, private mansion, boys school and an alms house, which it remains to this day.
During the Black Death, the land was used as a burial site. This was followed in 1371 by the building of a Carthusian monastery, which flourished until the monasteries were dissolved, when it became a mansion for wealthy nobleman and a refuge for royalty. In 1611 it was bought by Thomas Sutton, who established alms houses for elderly sick and injured pensioners known as Brothers, as well as a school. When the school moved to Godalming in 1872, the Brothers remained, admitting ladies, also known as Brothers, in 2016. The tour included the newly refurbished medieval Great Chamber, where Elizabeth 1 met her privy Council, the Cloisters where schoolboys played football and the offside rule was devised, and the Great Hall, where Brothers gather daily for meals. We were interested to learn that the current Master of Charterhouse, and the first in its 400 year old history, is a woman!
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LATE SEPTEMBER 2021
"On Wednesday 29th September eleven members visited the extraordinary Eltham Palace. Eltham is a unique marriage between a medieval and Tudor palace and a 1930s millionaire’s mansion.
Mentioned in the Domesday Book, Eltham was acquired by the Bishop of Durham who, in 1305, rebuilt the Manor House and presented it to the future Edward II. From the 14th to the 16th century it was an important royal palace, where monarchs often stayed and hunted in the extensive parkland. Subsequent monarchs spent time and money restoring the Palace. Henry VIII passed much of his boyhood at Eltham, and was the last monarch to spend substantial amounts of money or time there. Over the next two centuries Eltham Palace was used as a farm and the buildings were tenanted.
After centuries of neglect, Eltham was leased to Stephen and Virginia Courtauld in 1933, who built an up-to-the-minute house that incorporated the great hall. The result was a masterpiece of 20th-century design.
The exterior of the new house, inspired by Hampton Court, is designed to complement the great hall.
The house was ideally suited to display the Courtaulds’ extensive collection of works of art. It also provided ample space for entertaining their broad social circle. As well as royalty, visitors included many celebrities.
The Courtaulds also took full advantage of new technology. There were electric fires, synchronous clocks powered by mains electricity and a loudspeaker system that could broadcast records to rooms on the ground floor. A private internal telephone exchange, a centralised vacuum cleaner, and gas powered underfloor and radiant ceiling heating were installed throughout. Keen horticulturalists, the Courtaulds also created a variety of garden features including a rock garden, formal rose gardens and a series of garden rooms.
Eltham Palace claims to be the finest Art Deco house open for visitors. We. certainly wouldn’t argue with that!"
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SEPTEMBER 2021
On Monday 14th September 14 members enjoyed a self guided walk around the Spitalfields area. In Spital Square we met 21 statues representing orphaned infant elephants now in the care of the Sheldrich Trust. The walk continued looking at various points of interest including Christ Church Spitalfields, fire insurance badges, lovely Georgian houses, and large attic windows which let in light for Huguenot silk weavers in the 1700/1800’s. We admired the diversity of local knockers which adorn the front doors of the area. The Truman Brewery in Brick Lane, once employing over 2,000, closed in 1989. It is currently home to over 100 small businesses, but Tower Hamlets Council, against much local protest, has recently approved its development into prime office space and a shopping centre.
We passed through Spitalfields Market en route to a local hostelry, where fine vittles and ales were enjoyed, before the return journey. Some members could not resist the opportunity to return to the market for further bargain hunting.
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AUGUST 2021
On Saturday 14th August 15 members visited the Lowewood Museum in Hoddesdon and enjoyed a very interesting visit. Members of staff were extremely welcoming and it provided the group with plenty to remember and reminisce over. Unfortunately the temporary exhibition ‘Tankards, Tales and Taverns’ was unexpectedly closed, but hopefully should be available again soon. It is due to close on 6th November. The thought of the ‘tankards and taverns’ seemed to entice members to the visit The Star for lunch. This grade II listed building dates back to the early 1500s and in 2014 some 500 year old murals were discovered by builders. These are on display inside The Star and were enjoyed by all.
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FEBRUARY 2020
On Monday 24th February 25 members enjoyed a very interesting tour of Freemasons Hall. The tour started with a film, showing what it is like to become a freemason with all the dress and pomp, followed by a visit to the museum which included Winston Churchill’s apron and a throne made for the future King George IV. Next we were shown the Memorial Shrine and Roll of Honour and lastly the wonderful Grand Temple with its mighty bronze doors weighing 1¼ tons each, gilt thrones and a superb pipe organ.
It is generally considered that the freemason movement was formed by stonemasons who had the freedom to travel. In 1717 four London Lodges declared themselves a Grand Lodge in the Goose and Gridiron Tavern in St. Paul’s Churchyard. The Book of Constitutions of Masonry first published by 1723 and in its updated form regulates all Lodges and freemasons in the UK. The organisation is one of the largest charitable givers in the country.
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JANUARY 2020
Hertford Castle, the Plague, Parliament Square and McMullens.
On Tuesday 21st January 28 members enjoyed an extremely interesting tour of Hertford Town. Settled by the Anglo-Saxons at the confluence of 4 rivers, namely the Beane, Rib, Mimram and Lea, Hertford grew to include a Norman motte-and bailey-castle. The main surviving structure is the 15th century gatehouse in the riverside gardens. The mound beside the river Lea is the original motte. Later Henry II rebuilt the castle in stone, which served both as a prison and a home: a regular visitor was Elizabeth I. During her reign Parliament met at Hertford Castle when driven from London by the plague, giving the name to its ParliamentSquare. Other buildings of interest include the Shire Hall (James Adams 1771) and the15th century Vergers House.
The font of St Andrew’s Church was rolled out by a parishioner over an unpaid debt, but was subsequently returned.
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NOVEMBER 2019
"On 14th November 20 members enjoyed a group visit to the Cutty Sark and the National Maritime Museum at Greenwich. Delays on the Circle Line meant we had to walk the last part of the Journey to Tower Pier from where we travelled to Greenwich by River Bus, seeing how much the waterfront has changed since many of us were last on the Thames.
At the Cutty Sark we had a very informative guided tour explaining the history of the vessel from its launch to the modern day including the almost catastrophic fire in 2007 that engulfed the vessel whilst it was being restored.
It is testament to the work carried out thereafter that only a few scorch marks that remain and without those and a commemorative plaque it would be hard to know that such a blaze took place.
Most of the group lunched at the National Maritime Museum before taking in its exhibitions, whilst some opted for traditional Pie and Mash in the Market. We made our way back via DLR and then train to Cheshunt making it an enjoyable day including Trains, Boats and Planes although the latter where only flying overhead!"
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OCTOBER 2019
On a dull and very damp Monday, 14th October we visited the Imperial War Museum, Lambeth Road, which traces conflicts from WW1 until the present day. Naturally, we fortified ourselves with coffee before embarking into the First World War galleries. This told the story of the Great War through the eyes of the British people and the Empire, both on the home front and on the fighting front. The Second World War Gallery included key moments of the WW2 through people’s lives and the objects on display. The role of strategic bombing and the fighting fronts in Russia and Africa, through to the D-Day landings were explained and illustrated. The Holocaust Gallery and Extraordinary Heroes which houses the world’s largest collection of Victoria Crosses, alongside a significant collection of George Crosses were visited my some group members. The latter described over 250 extraordinary stories of men, women and children who performed extraordinary acts of bravery to help other people in desperate need and who acted with courage and bravery. It was a very informative, humbling and memorable visit.
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SEPTEMBER 2019
“On 12th September, 22 of us had a sunny day out visiting Buckingham Palace State Rooms, entering via the iconic 'Grand Entrance' leading to the 'Grand Hall & Staircase', where the Queen and Royal Family have welcomed many Heads of State, dignitaries, famous people and members of the general public who have received investitures. Our tour took us through magnificent, palatially decorated rooms, designed by architect John Nash who was commissioned by King George lV until his death in 1830, when the government sacked Nash for financial mismanagement and replaced him with Edward Blore to complete unfinished work.
The various rooms were adorned with many interesting furnishings including art works, treasured rare antiques and huge chandeliers which were once lite with candles, until Queen Victoria introduced electricity into the palace and later, telephones so members of the Royal Family and palace staff could keep in touch. She also extended the building to accommodate the parties she frequently held.
We were also fortunate to see a special exhibition called 'Queen Victoria's Palace' which depicted her reign from her Coronation and her wedding to the sad death of Prince Albert and were able to view her throne on display in the Queen's throne room
The multi-media guide, via head sets, was very informative with the tour lasting approximately 2 hours and finishing at The Garden Cafe, overlooking the green and pond where many garden parties have been held. Some of the group went on to enjoy lunch at the 'Willow Walk' Pub before returning home via Victoria Station.