2016 WALKS
By tradition our January walk is alongside the Chelmer as it meanders through the Chelmer Valley Nature and Heritage Reserve before returning to the warmth of the Tulip's log fire.
It was a very cold crisp morning as we left the Tulip's car park (all 17 of us) and walked through the ancient heart of Springfield, before a surprise diversion to a stretch of footpath alongside the railway line (giving an unknown view of the back of the Aldi store) before merging next to the Springfield WI "hut". 'I didn't know that was there came many cries!'
We then followed our oft walked route alongside the railway line before dropping down to the Chelmer Valley reserve. Thence past the site of Bishop's Hall Mill, and it's millstream and alongside Anglia Ruskin University. Despite the chill weather there were no volunteers to use the adjacent trim trail to warm up.
Recrossing the river we returned through a short urban interlude to the warmth of the Tulip's fire. Much talking alongside a well deserved lunch and pint.
There were clear blue skies and a heavy frost when we departed the Cricketers at Mill Green for our February walk. At the beginning and end of our walk we touched upon St.Peter’s Way but it was not our intention to walk the ‘Way’ at this time.
We started through Writtle Forest and it was not long before we came across a ‘wolf’! In fairness it was a young husky who seemed to like company but of his owner there was no sign. Despite looking we could not see anyone, so it was that we gained another walker! Our greatest concern was for Tosca’s safety (for that was the name on the collar) – but unfortunately there was no answer to the phone number.
Two miles further on, they knew Tosca at the woodyard but no idea where he lived! Keep going to the pub they said, he stays there!! As luck would have it someone had received the message we had left on the answering machine and we were able to rendezvous with the owner.
Just as well, as it was not long before we left the woods and were out in the open country, where we soon spotted a large herd of Fallow Deer. Continuing on we passed Writtle Park and it’s large circular tower dovecote; from here our path led downward with spectacular views of the forest to the south west.
It is said Essex is flat but the rolling countryside around here could have been the downs or some other county. Needless to say if you go down you must come up and upon reaching the road we were soon climbing towards Box Wood. Over a few stiles and we were once again on Mill Green Common (and St.Peter’s Way) from where we retraced our steps across the Common to the pub and a well earned lunch.
And Tosca – I suspect he received a cuddle at home and was soon settled in his basket (PS – despite the name we were sure he was a boy!!)
A murky but wind free March morning saw eight well wrapped up walkers set off from Paglesham. This ancient remote village is full of tales of smugglers, contraband hidden in inn cellars and church crypts and ‘wife farming’. Today it relies upon good food in those remote pubs and a return of the oyster fisheries.
We started from the Plough & Sail and were headed away from East End to Church End, soon picking up the waymarked Roach Valley Way. At Church End we found the 11th century church of St.Peter gifted by Edward the Confessor to the Abbey of Westminster. The church has been much restored in 15th, 19th and some renovation in the current century. From here we passed another pub, The Punch Bowl, originally a sail loft and a line of fishermen’s cottages before heading, on the Roach Valley Way (RVW), for the sea wall.
At the sea wall we joined Paglesham Creek and parted company from the RVW as we turned east to follow the creek. Opposite us we could seem the wood & timber yards of Wallasea Island and in the distance Burnham on Crouch. We continued to follow the Creek to it’s confluence with the River Roach. The tide was out and there was an abundance of birdlife along the mudflats – we recognised Curlew, Oyster Catcher, Black-headed Gulls and Brent Geese to name but a few.
We now followed the River Roach towards the boatyard at Paglesham East End. We thought we could see the conveyors used for dumping the spoil from London’s Crossrail project onto the extension of Wallasea Island to form a new wetland reserve/habitat but it was too grey to make this out with any clarity. Passing a couple of rusting hulks, which raised questions as to their use/original use and sitings, we reached the boatyard. From here it was a short walk to return to the Plough & Sail for lunch and the Winter Warmer enjoyed by some (beef stew/shepherd’s pie & spotted dick!!).
It was a bright sunny April day as 12 walkers set off from the Red Cow at Chrishall. The first leg of our walk took us along aspects of the Harcamlow Way (the long distance north-southpath linking Cambridge and Harlow).
We tend to think of Essex as flat but this area, near the Cambridge/Hertford border seems to be typified by rolling hills and wide vistas. Walking downhill from Chrishall Church, currently undergoing restoration, we found that the foot-bridge had been removed (six foot drop!) necessitating a slight diversion before we headed towards Chiswick Hall 9and away from the Harcamlow Way).
Our route soon took us to the thatched church at Duddenhoe End, where the local Parson took pity on the villagers, who had to walk to Elmdon – two miles as the crow flies – to attend Divine Service, so he converted his barn into a chapel so they could attend service nearer home.
The pretty chapel has pine pews with tall candle holders to illuminate the building, which runs north/south rather than the traditional east/west axis. Thus the altar, although at the east ‘end’ of the church, backs the longest side of the edifice.
Continuing our walk the blue of the sky is reflected in the myriads of bluebells that carpet the surrounding woods. Almost giving a luminosity to the undergrowth. We head to Elmdon and St.Nicholas Church with it’s 17th century stained glass, produced at a time when church decoration was seen as ‘papist’. The Elmdon Dial depicts an hour glass, a sun dial and a fly (for disease) to remind those viewing it of the shortness of a life span! The pub opposite is named after the window but alas has been closed and still awaits it’s fate.
From Elmdon we join the Icknield Way trail – the supposed oldest trackway in England – before returning to our starting point for a hearty lunch.
Not only was the weather with us but also the blossom (and rape)as we headed for the Compasses at Littley Green for our May walk. We set off heading to Hartford End and it’s brewery; unfortunately the brewery closed many years ago and is currently being redeveloped. The Mill House, to the rear of the brewery, once the home of the Ridley family had also been redeveloped and as a consequence the footpath diverted to the other side of the River Chelmer.
Wending our way around woods and across fields we reached Stumps Cross and crossed the busy road to Great Dunmow to a restful green lane (Dunmow Road) which just before Walthambury took us back across fields, on an excellently maintained field track to the Green Man at Howe Street.
It was here we met a party of Brentwood Ramblers (all 24 of ‘em) who were heading to the Compasses for lunch!! We let them past as they were quicker than we, and headed back toward sour destination along another section of the Saffron Way.
Crossing the Chelmer again (and a couple of high stiles) we once again reached the road towards Great Dunmow. Crossing here we back headed across country, passing some lovely houses and barn conversions before arriving on time for lunch.
Did we tell you about the ‘Huffers’? Massive baps with a choice of hot and cold fillings – more than an meal for a U3A walker, with a pint of excellent ale as well of course!
Our June walk was around and through another of the Essex Wildlife Trust (EWT) reserves – Chafford Hundred. The site comprises a number of defunct quarries designated as sites of either geological or special scientific interest. Where else could you find the original gravel bed of the River Thames 30 metres above the current river level. This was laid down almost half a million years ago. Under this is a layer of sand; rock debris geologically matching that of the Scottish mountains – laid down after the extinction of the dinosaurs!
Although we walked between quarries via the residential areas (and odd ‘tank farm’ ) laid out at the same time as the infamous Lakeside Shopping Centre it was difficult, once in the quarries to remember that we were surrounded by housing . There was a wealth of wildflowers especially pyramidal orchids – brought on by the recent alternating warmth and rain – birdsong and the buzzing of insect life abounded.
We passed overflow channels sealed with grills to protect the resident bat population and too much evidence of human activity – bottles, cigarette packets and general rubbish. Regrettably whilst the area is walked by local residents they have yet to clear up after them.
After much ‘upping and downing’ we ended our walk where we had begun, at the EWT Visitor Centre, and enjoyed lunch overlooking the Warren Gorges.
Our July full day walk - It was our “usual” walking day, but was also the hottest day of the year so far!! Despite this a small dedicated band were determined to walk that section of the Thames Path National Trail that ran from Westminster to the Cutty Sark, at Greenwich.
In order to avoid the tourist crush we joined the path on the South Bank; by crossing from Embankment station on the north side by way of the Hungerford Railway Bridge. Originally built as a suspension bridge by Brunel it’s chains were removed to finish the Clifton Suspension Bridge!!
Once over the river we joined the hustle and bustle amongst the tourists who were enjoying the various cosmopolitan eateries; seemingly run from old French vans. Heading east the first landmark we passed was the Oxo Tower. First built as a power station for the Post Office it was rebuilt in the 1930’s for the stock cube manufacturer. Permission was refused for electric signage advertising the product so instead they incorporated for sets of windows, one to each side of the tower. Each set of three windows, one above the other, feature a circle, a cross and a circle (OXO). Like many of the landmarks this has now been converted into restaurants and boutiques.
Passing under Blackfriars Bridge we enter Bankside – passing Tate Modern and the reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, buzzing with visitors and playgoers. Then passing the site of the notorious Clink Prison, now occupied by a sandwich shop, that was once under the kitchens of the Bishop of Winchester’s Palace. It’s beautiful rose window stands over the remains of the dining hall. Then on past Drake’s “Golden Hinde” (was this the one originally at Southend?) to Southwark Cathedral and Borough Market.
The Path winds past London Bridge Station before returning to the Thames and it’s converted riverside buildings such as Hays Wharf. Once the unloading dock for the fast tea clippers now an arcade full of shops and restaurants.
On past the veteran cruiser of the D-Day landings – HMS Belfast and City Hall to Tower Bridge. Strangely once under the bridge we lose the tourists despite the continuing wealth of history to be gleaned.
Much of this stretch of the river sees the old warehouses, wharves and docks converted into luxury apartments and it is as a consequence of local community activists (such as Maggie Blake after whom this alleyway to the river is named – Maggie Blake’s Cause) that public access to the areas of riverbank in private ownership has been achieved. Looking around us many of the office blocks of the City of London and Docklands Development seem to move from side to side; it is then that we realise exactly how much the river winds at this point. On the opposite bank (north) we can see the warehouses and shipping of St.Katherine’s Dock.
We are in Bermondsey, that part of London where Bill Sykes, in Dicken’s ‘Oliver Twist’ meets his death in the Thames mud. It was here at St.Saviour’s Dock that pirates were hanged. Further on we reach The Angel pub, providing a grandstand view of Execution Dock opposite where Captain Kidd was eventually executed – oddly the Dock now seems to be adjacent to the Headquarters of the Metropolitan Police’s Marine Unit.
History continues along this side of the river, which saw some tremendous devastation during the last war. The Mayflower pub, which the departure of the Pilgrim Fathers to America is opposite St.Mary’s Church in whose churchyard four of the ship’s owners are buried. Almost next door is the Brunel Museum, located in the engine house which pumped water from Brunel’s Thames Tunnel linking Rotherhithe and Wapping.
We reach a small area with a series of Bronzes called “Dr. Salter’s Daydream”. Salter and his wife were social reformers who sought to help those who lived in the poverty and decrepitude of this area. They moved to the area to show they meant their words by their actions. Their only child contracted and died of the scarlet fever so endemic in the area. Mrs Salter died not long after. Alone but continuing his work Salter remained. He sits on a bench with his hands resting on his stick daydreaming (being comforted by Heather) of his wife and daughter, who is being watched by the family cat.
Continuing our walk along the river we reach Surrey Docks City Farm, a rural oasis with pigs, hens and goats – sitting in the shade. But an excellent spot for a welcome mug of tea and a bacon or sausage sandwich. The farm survives by selling produce – eggs, goat milk (and meat) to the local community – and the excellent “caff” is to be recommended as well. We leave the farm past it’s bronze inhabitants and approach Greenland Dock, a great expanse of pleasure craft stretch some considerable way inland, with it’s own lock access to the Thames. Originally part of the Royal Dockyard in Deptford and named after it’s subsequent use by the whaling fleet.
Deptford’s Tudor Docks, which saw the knighting of Sir Francis Drake by Queen Elizabeth 1st, is identified by The Old Rum Stores (now luxury apartments), is followed by Pepys Park, named after the Secretary for the Navy and diarist Samuel Pepys after which our path is forced from the river around the new construction being undertaken here. We return to the river at Twinkle Park and soon after pass a modernist statue of Peter the Great – erected by the Russian People in homage to the information and practise he gained bu studying ship-building in the adjacent Navy Yards.
It is not long before we reach our final destination the tea clipper “Cutty Sark” (named after the vest worn by the ‘sea hag’ on her figurehead). A few short steps and we are sampling the produce of the Mean Time microbrewery in the Brew House of the Old Naval College.
A “warm” but satisfying day was had by all before we embarked upon the train journey home. Our day not just been spent walking along part of London’s great river, we had learnt a little history and seen birdlife including – black backed and black headed gulls, grey heron, merganser, cormorant and great crested grebe.
A pleasant September day saw a large band of walkers set off from Tollesbury Marina, our destination was a loop encompassing the RSPB Reserve at Old Hall Farm and both the ’old’ and ‘new’ sea walls. The ‘old’ sea wall had been breached to permit the sea to re-enter the marshes and thus enhance/re-enrich/improve the existing saltmarsh habitat.
The areas which had subsequently been flooded were apparent as we spotted the skeletons of what had once been hedgerow and trees standing guardian within the invigorated marsh. Indeed upon our return journey we were able to see the tide starting to creep back into the marsh.
Soon after we started out we saw the lightship used as accommodation by Fellowship Afloat and a happy band of primary school children using the high ropes near the sail lofts.
Our walk was somewhat meandering as we followed the line of the seawalls. One minute Old Hall Farm was a seeming few yards away the next some considerable distance. Unfortunately we were too early for the returning geese but on our walk we did see egret, swan, black-headed gull and some waders (too distant to identify).
Despite the fact that the grass pathway had been cut it was not long before the walkers in front found their boots covered with ‘rust’ obviously pollen but we were at a loss as to find out where it came from. The wall necessitated walking in single file thus the farther back you were, the cleaner the boots!!
Samphire was spotted but strangely no one wanted to walk across the mud flats to collect this delicacy.
Once we reached Old Hall Farm we continued onward to the Salcott Channel where, just before Quince’s Corner, we turned south heading for Joyce’s Head. Just before the Head, aptly identified by a sign reading “short cut”, we headed back to Old Hall Farm and retraced our steps to Tollesbury Marina.
As we headed back to the Marina and lunch, here getting nearer, there further away we noticed another phenomenon; to the south-east was the decommissioned Bradwell Power Station and to the left of it St.Peter’s Chapel (the one around the corner from the other, as we know from an earlier walk) but indicative of how flat – and ideal for smuggling – this coast is.
Upon reaching Tollesbury Marina we made our way to the café where we not only had satisfyingly large mugs of tea with our lunches but also a gooey sponge with jam and cream filling.
An October Day saw a dozen walkers set off from the aptly named “Traveller’s Friend” at Epping Green. Our aim a five mile route linking sections of The Stort Valley Way, The Three Forests Way and The Forest Way.
Starting along an old lane, Epping Long Green , we turned to follow field boundaries alongside a brook and then onto a busy road. Crossing near the “King Harold’s Head” to reach the entrance to Nazeing Golf Course. We continued to follow the Stort Valley Way which crosses the golf course and it’s driving range.
Leaving the golf course we headed across a lane and on to a footpath which headed uphill passing a circle of oaks planted to mark the Millennium, encircling a massive rock. The path continued between timbered houses to a T-junction. Crossing we followed the path to Broadley Common and Sun Inn – but we are not stopping. Crossing yet another busy road we join the Three Forests Way to our starting point and a well deserved lunch.
This recommended as the ideal walk for a summer’s day, stopping for refreshment at all hostelries enroute – a pleasurable thought but we had to drive home!
We combined our walk with raising money for BBC Children in Need Countryfile Ramble. Last year we raised £70 we are hoping to better that total this year.
November saw our final walk of the year (in December we review where we have been and plan for 2017). Despite the overcast it was warm and a happy band set off from the Essex Wildlife Trust Visitor Centre at Thorndon Country Park. The park spans an immense 529 acres and our 5 mile walk was to take us more or less around it’s boundaries.
From the Visitor Centre we headed downhill through the ancient woods full of oak, beech, hornbeam of Little Warley Common. At the foot we reached the rise of Old Thorndon Pastures, a landscape returned to traditional farmland with hedged fields and Ayrshire cattle. The sign on the gate said “Bull in Field” but we didn’t spot him I’m pleased to say.
On reaching Childerditch Pond we headed up a steep slope towards South Park Cottage, then down an avenue of (comparatively young ) limes with pasture either side before entering the Woodland Trust’s Rookery Wood. It was rather quiet so the rooks of it’s name must have been elsewhere!
Continuing on through Ruin Wood, and more brown & white Ayreshires we passed Pigeon Mount (thought to be the site of a demolished dovecote) before reaching the ‘high point’ of our walk overlooking the busy A127. On a clear day it is possible to see right over the Thames. The best we could do was to spot the twin chimneys of Tilbury Power Station (due to be demolished sometime in 2017).
From here we entered Thorndon Country Park South and the grounds of Old Park. This area consists of a number of (young) plantations but has become overgrown by bracken, bramble and tree suckers. The solution to this has been to introduce nature’s natural lawn mowers , goats, into selected areas to remove this unwanted growth – and it seems to be succeeding.
Continuing through Old Park ,alongside Thorndon Park Golf Course, we cross the second car park and continue to the Visitor Centre for lunch.
Not a drop of rain despite the overcast. Plenty of autumn leaves to kick through – a fitting end to this year’s walking.